There’s a parallel experience to be had in Scandinavian neighbour Norway. Flying into Bergen is instantly relaxing, its cobbled streets and medieval houses a sight more scenic than Oslo’s urban modernity.


From here you can take an express boat to the resort of Balestrand, a picturesque hamlet on the north shore of the Sognefjord. If the blossoming orchards and medieval wooden church don’t inspire a rash of spontaneous photography, nothing will.

Sognefjord also has a famous boat museum, based at Kaupanger. Fishing and ‘ice’ boats from throughout history are on display, giving a glimpse into this nation’s close relationship with the sea and the fjords.

Another water-based feature is the Jostedal Glacier, the largest ice floe in mainland Europe. Recently established as a national park, the glacier lies across an area of 185 sq miles. there is a glacier museum and visitors’ centre to help travellers make the most of their glacial encounter. The Blue Lagoon and the ice caves provide further adventure.

Sure, the beaten track has its advantages: swanky hotels, village-sized shopping malls and multiscreen cinemas. But heading out into lesser known parts is a balm to the traveller’s soul.

How great to find a rural B&B on a tiny island, an outdoor market selling local handicrafts, or a spectacular natural show that casts waterfalls and wolves in leading roles.

All it takes is a broadening of horizons, a decision to try something out of the ordinary and some good old-fashioned research. You’ll want to be able to find your way back to the beaten path, after all.

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Kirsten Flagstad tribute February 1963

THOSE of us who worked with Kirsten Flagstad during her last years knew the human being rather than the prima donna. She had a speaking voice strikingly reminiscent of Kathleen Ferrier’s; she was warm, kindly and tremendously dignified; she sang like no other woman before or since, and I think in the end she was lonely.

Among ourselves we used to call her, affectionately, “Mum”, and I can see her now as she stood on the Sofiensaal stage in 1957, wearing an enormous picture hat, and bidding Sieglinde “Fort denn eile!” in a voice that had lost nothing in the six years since she gave the same command at Covent Garden. It is good to think that her visits to London and Vienna did much to break up the monotony of her retirement years.

If I give emphasis to those years, to the amazing re-emergence of Flagstad in full voice and full sail, it is because they were the years when I knew her personally. It was her misfortune that she retired officially at the very moment that LP made complete opera recordings a practicable venture.

Even so, EMI made their complete Tristan and the Götterdämmerung Immolation Scene under Furtwängler, and the Dido and Aeneas recording which followed her appearances at Bernard Miles’s original Mermaid Theatre. Earlier still were all the RCA 78 r.p.m. discs, some of which have found their way on to LP. She herself had a fabulous collection of live transcriptions of her own performances in the ‘thirties.

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Watch for these athletes to land on the podium in Vancouver.

Biathlon: Ole Einar Bjorndalen, Norway — Bjorndalen’s goal at the Games will be to further establish himself as one of the best biathletes in history. Bjorndalen, 35, has five Olympic gold medals to his credit (one in 1998, four in 2002), the most of any biathlete, three silver (one in 1998, two in 2006) and one bronze (1998).


Cross-country skiing: Petter Northug, Norway — A trio of gold medals isn’t out of the question for the 24-year-old, considered one of the best finishers among cross-country skiers.

Curling: Dav id Murdoch, Britain — The Scot’s resume is impressive, featuring two world championships (2006, 2009) and two world silver medals (2005, 2008). And this year, he’s got Kevin Martin’s number. Murdoch has won four-straight matches against the Edmonton skip, who will represent Canada in Vancouver.

Freestyle skiing: Dale Begg- Smith, Australia — The Vancouverborn Begg-Smith won gold in men’s moguls at the 2006 Turin Games. The 25-year-old has bounced back from a knee injury to lead the World Cup mogul standings heading into the Vancouver Games.

Long Track speed skating: Martina Sab likova , Czech Republic — Sablikova, 22, is expected to challenge Canadian stars Kristina Groves, Cindy Klassen and Clara Hughes in the longer distances. She recently won her second all-around European title.

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Fjord Norway is not just about gorgeous scenery, it’s also an outdoor playground, a fabulous place for touring and a chance to return to nature in the most spectacular style.


It’s little wonder that Fjord Norway was voted the world’s number one sustainable destination by National Geographic Traveller magazine, whose judges remarked on the gorgeous scenery and well-preserved rural life that are vigorously protected.

Yet Fjord Norway is not just about good looks, it’s an outdoor playground for the active, a fabulous place for touring and a chance to return to nature in the most spectacular style.

Starting in the south, one of the country’s most iconic features is known locally as Pulpit Rock, a small plateau way above the glorious Lysefjord.

A brave head for heights is needed to wander near the edge but those who do will be rewarded with unsurpassed views. Close to here is Norway’s fourth largest city, Stavanger which was European Capital of Culture in 2008.

Haugesund is another appealing southern town – the original home of the Viking Kings. The southern fjords provide a good opportunity to witness Norway’s dramatic waterfalls.

Moving further north, we enter the wonderful area around Bergen and the region of Sogn and Fjordane – a region full of the most breathtaking scenery and where nature and culture collide with spectacular results.

Moving into the Møre and Romsdal region, one is struck spellbound by the stunning natural beauty of Geirangerfjord – words cannot describe it. It simply has to be seen to be believed.

This is merely a ramble through the innumerable delights of Fjord Norway. You will need months to fully explore, but remember it is only a two-hour flight away, (from England) so you can return as often as you like.

Fjord Norway



Ibsen’s plays are gloomy, solemn affairs, full of sad, thwarted lives. Or so I thought – until I went on a voyage around Norway to find out what made the writer tick.

Confession time: I have ­always harboured a ­prejudice against Ibsen. I have thought he was too solemn for my taste, too sober, too glum. I believe that comedy must live alongside ­tragedy, as my two favourite ­playwrights – Shakespeare and ­Chekhov – prove.


But when I was offered the part of Dr Stockmann in Ibsen’s An Enemy of the People, and read the play, I found I couldn’t put it down. Never mind the comedy/tragedy issue, this was like a thriller. In fact, Peter Benchley ­borrowed the plot for his bestseller, Jaws: a small coastal town is threatened with closure, except in Ibsen’s version it’s a health spa and the danger in the water is not a shark, but poisonous contamination. The man who has made this discovery, Dr Stockmann, finds himself in a battle against the mayor (his brother) and the rest of the town.

I accepted the job with a feeling of ­excitement and curiosity. Would this be the moment I became ­converted to Ibsen? I started work with a visit to Norway, with director Daniel Evans (also the Sheffield Crucible’s new artistic ­director), and designer, Ben Stone. I’ve done these kinds of research trips throughout my career, and they always yield surprising discoveries.

We flew to Oslo, where the sun sparkled on the fjord, and where we were given an Ibsen tour by Yngve Marcussen, a theatre ­lecturer – large, red-haired, and very good company. Norway’s National theatre is fronted by statues of two of its great writers: Ibsen and Bjørnstjerne Bjørnson. They are both the same size. Ibsen insisted on it. He was self-conscious about his height – a mere 5ft 2in – and spent his life wearing raised heels, a big top hat, and even brushing his hair into an ­upward sweep.

I thought this might provide a clue to Dr Stockmann, who is the ultimate outsider. But exactly how autobiographical is the role? Historically, I know the play was partly born from the reception to Ghosts (written just before Enemy), which was vilified ­because of its syphilis theme. In Ghosts, Ibsen had created what is arguably his masterpiece, yet instead of being praised to the skies, he felt he was fighting the world. Dr Stockmann ­undergoes the same reversal of fortune.

The Ibsen Museum in Oslo is built around the apartment where the playwright and his wife Suzannah lived for the last decade of his life. You can visit it, as long as you don’t mind looking silly in blue plastic overshoes.

I found it strange and moving to be an intruder in the Ibsens’ posh but gloomy home, the walls painted in muddy shades of brown and green (what would it be like in a Norwegian winter, lit only by lamps?). There was the desk where he wrote, with a view of the royal palace, and, bizarrely, a portrait of his arch ­rival, August Strindberg, with disturbed, staring eyes, on the wall behind. ­(Ibsen named the painting “Emerging ­Madness”.)

He clearly had a sense of humour, and it extended to his very last moment. We peered into his ­bedroom, with its tiny wooden bed, ­almost like a cot. Ibsen died here: on hearing his nurse tell some visitors that he seemed better, this hugely ­argumentative writer said: “On the ­contrary!” and promptly died.

The playwright now lies in the VIP section of Oslo’s main cemetery. When Ibsen finished writing Enemy of the People, he said he didn’t know whether to call it a drama or a comedy. At the cemetery, there was evidence beneath our feet. The pavement is inlaid with a trail of quotes from the plays, and the one from Enemy comes after ­Stockmann’s confrontation with the townspeople: discovering that his clothes are torn, he says, “If you go out to fight for freedom and truth, you should never wear your best trousers,” which sounds like a line written by Tom Stoppard.

We visited Vigeland Park, filled with bronze and granite statues. The sculptor Gustav Vigeland made several fine busts of Ibsen, but there’s not much else to connect the two men – not at first sight, anyway. Vigeland’s life project was to fill the grounds of this city park, and he had only one ­subject: the nude – dozens of them, hundreds. In the fast-fading light of an Oslo afternoon – a couple swinging over one another’s backs, some kids rushing forward – they took my breath away.

Vigeland’s style led to accusations that he was a Nazi sympathiser – the thick, muscular bodies look vaguely like Aryan super-people – but his work represents a completely opposite ­ideology: a celebration of being human, and varied. The negative propaganda is an example of the same short-sighted, narrow-minded thinking that Ibsen battled for much of his career, and that he dramatises so vividly in Enemy of the People.

I decided I might have been wrong about the gloom in Ibsen’s work. Maybe it’s more to do with something in the Scandinavian ­character, ­something the writer ­actively kicks against. The next day we travelled by train to the south-eastern coast, where ­Ibsen spent his childhood. The family had a summer home at Venstøp, which ­became their only home when Ibsen’s drunken father lost their money. This is now another Ibsen ­museum.

In his bedroom, little Henrik had a puppet theatre, and there are ­examples of his artwork: caricatures of his siblings as monkeys and dogs. Here was humour again, though dark, ­almost grotesque.

Ibsen’s actual birthplace – a few miles away, at Skien – could have been the model for the small provincial town at the heart of Enemy of the ­People. It has hilly streets with ­clapperboard houses in white, grey and red. Down below, the river mixes with the sea.

Ibsen described it as a place of “storming, soughing, seething waters”. As in his Oslo apartment, and in a way I find hard to describe, I got a clear, ­private feel of what he might have been like, only this time as a boy.

It was a cool, drizzly Sunday afternoon. The town was deserted. Probably quite boring to grow up here; if you were a short, sensitive child, you’d reach for your imagination.

Being in Skien made us aware that, despite its epic shape, Enemy is ­actually about little people fighting among themselves in a little town. This is important: it brushes away the heroic glow that can settle around the play.

Some translations, such as Arthur Miller’s, choose to enhance the heroism – one good guy against a load of baddies – but the version we’re ­doing, by Christopher Hampton, is much quirkier, and more challenging. Stockmann is telling the truth about the water contamination, but nobody wants to hear it. The situation starts to threaten his own sanity.

We went to Skien town centre for what was meant to be the highlight of the trip, a visit to the house where ­Ibsen was born, and after which my character is named – Stockmannsgarden – only to discover that we hadn’t done our homework.

The place no longer ­exists; it’s a bookstore called Ark, part of a shopping arcade. Nearby stood ­another statue of the playwright – a ­giant figure, striding forward with bearded chin held high, heading for the history books.

It looked preposterous, particularly as, along with Chekhov, ­Ibsen invented the theatrical antihero.

On our last evening in Oslo we ate at the Theatercaféen – a big, elegant, ­European-style cafe across the road from the National theatre – with Ola ­Johannessen, a leading actor, director and writer.

He said of Ibsen: “I love the work, but would have hated the actual man: this tiny, pompous fellow, with his big top hat and all his medals pinned on his chest.”

I thought about the Ibsen I had learned about – the small boy discovering art in ­Skien and Venstøp, the grand old man dying in his Oslo apartment – and realised that I had become ­absolutely mesmerised by him.

So the last laugh is on me. After ­40-odd years in the business, I am ­discovering a new great playwright, while everyone else has known this about Ibsen for rather a long time.

Original story



The Northern Lights are seen when the solar wind stream hits Earth’s magnetic field, sparking bright auroras around the Arctic Circle.


In northern latitudes, the effect is known as the Aurora Borealis, named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for north wind, Boreas, by Pierre Gassendi in 1621.

The aurora borealis is also called the northern polar lights, as it is only visible in the sky from the Northern Hemisphere, with the chance of visibility increasing with proximity to the North Magnetic Pole.

These shots were taken by photographer Bjorn Jorgensen who lives in Tromso in northern Norway.

To see the photos follow this link:

Amazing Photos Of Northern Lights Over Arctic



Start At Bergen’s ferry port or airport. Take the smaller, more exciting road via Alvik to meet the Oslo road at Eidfjord.

Route (800 miles) Michelin’s excellent European road atlases highlight especially scenic roads in green.


The 350 miles from Bergen to the outskirts of Oslo is green all the way – meaning many hours of non-stop pointing and gasping. Return along on the coast road via Kristiansand and Stavanger, and swap mountains for pretty coastal towns, rocky islands and car ferry trips.

Look out for Elk. They make a hefty dent in even the toughest 4×4. Gaze at snow-topped mountains, sparkling fjords, deep conifer woods and fairy-tale wooden buildings like stave churches at Rollag and Uvdal.

Arendal and Kristiansand are worth exploring for upmarket waterfront shops and restaurants. Norway’s southernmost point at Mandal has a cute lighthouse and chic restaurant and, towards the end of the journey, the tiny white cottages next to the sea at Skudeneshavn near Haugesund, once voted Norway’s prettiest village.

Where to stay/eat Roald Dahl spent summer holidays at the whitewashed Strand Hotel Fevik. The elegant 30s hotel stands on a private sandy beach and the seafood here is good, too.

Ends Back at Bergen. Allow time for this world heritage city, especially gabled wooden buildings on the historic waterfront and riding funiculars and cable cars up the mountains.

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Emanuel Vigeland Museum at Slemdal is one of Oslo’s best kept secrets. The museum’s main attraction is a dark, barrel-vaulted room, completely covered with fresco paintings.


The 800 sq.m. fresco Vita depicts human life from conception till death, in dramatic and often explicitly erotic scenes. Large groups of bronze figures reiterate the dedication to the mystery of procreation. Entering the museum is a unique experience. The impression of the dimly lit frescoes with multitudes of naked figures is reinforced by the unusual and overwhelming acoustics of the room. Examples of the artist’s other monumental art is on display in a side room, as well as drawings and early symbolist paintings. Emanuel Vigeland (1875-1948), Gustav Vigeland’s younger brother, erected the building in 1926, intended as a future museum for his sculptures and paintings. He eventually decided that the museum should also serve as a mausoleum. All the windows were closed and his ashes were to rest in an urn above the entrance door. Influenced by Italian prototypes, he named his building Tomba Emmanuelle.

The museum is a private foundation and was opened to the public on 8. December 1959.

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