Oct 31
2009

Luke, a newcomer to Norway who has settled in a small hamlet in the far north, in Finnmark with his family, wants to share with us his first impressions of this strange land on the front steps of the Arctic:

Today I remembered the reason that I was excited about moving back to Norway.  When I awoke to the noisy demands of our one-year old, I looked out the window and was greeted by the bright blues and greens that are synonymous with this special part of the world during the warmer months.  It wasn’t unusual for the ocean to create the illusion of warmth through the safety of dual glazed windows, yet when I opened the balcony door a warm breeze crept in and put a smile on my face. The summer days are different here for many reasons.

The most obvious is that the sun does not fall behind the horizon for two and a half months. Yet there is something else that I cannot put my finger on. Perhaps it is the fact that a clear summer’s day is not taken for granted here. In fact, each day that requires T-shirt and sandals without socks to be worn is celebrated with a compulsory  BBQ.  The locals are quite aware that a summer can consist of a single Wednesday afternoon, when the sun has managed to squeeze between the fog and rain for a few precious hours. Yet despite the mass exodus to Crete, Turkey and Southern Spain, each July, the locals are all in agreement; nothing beats a beautiful summer day in Northern Norway.

It has been 4 months since my wife and I and our two young boys took the plunge and bought four one- way tickets to Øksfjord, Finmark. Since that time we have discovered that Norway is not exempt from the peculiarities that attach themselves to small town life.  Øksfjord has around 750 inhabitants and there are enough ‘characters’ here to warrant an exaggerated Hollywood screenplay.

Our initial arrival included not only its fair share of red tape frustrations, but also some surprising advantages of small town life.

After the first few hair pulling months of crazy government office bureaucracy,  the casual chat with the bank manager that enabled us to secure a loan for a house was surprisingly simple and devoid of stress.  In searching for a home, it was simply a case of letting it be known to a couple of people that we were on the lookout. Within a week, we had text messages and phone calls from strangers, asking if we would like to look at their houses. “Yes we would love to have a look”, was our response. “What’s the address?”  “Well, it’s the small green house next to where Bjorn Eriek has his summer cottage, across the road from the white house with the dried fish hanging from the verandah”, was the closest anyone gave us to a house number and street name.

In the end, it was a handwritten note pinned up on the supermarket’s information board that led us to our dream property in the valley. The news of our impending purchase swept like wildfire through the small town and a week before we had signed the papers, we had been congratulated by much of the community.

Sleep has taken on a sort of third or fourth priority. On more than one occasion have I relented to the sun gods that entice me out of bed and onto my push bike to cruise through the bends passed majestic snow capped mountains and mirror still fjord waters. Sometimes I feel like I am in a Volvo commercial.

The only traffic that I encounter during my late night travels is in the form of the nomadic reindeer that stubbornly stand tall in the middle of the road and glance briefly as I glide past.

Instead of a latte, my reward is to park my bike against a small tree and scramble up to my favourite sitting spot. Here I consider my situation in life and smile as dolphins play in the distance, a fishing boat chugs past and the midnight sun lights up this incredible place.

So far so good is the summation of the first four months in our new life. The next four months bring windswept, dark and snowy challenges. Yet I have a feeling that I will be smiling nonetheless.

Contributed by Luke Patterson. The author, a teacher, was born and raised in Melbourne, Australia. His Norwegian wife and their two young children moved to Øksfjord, Finnmark in April 2009. He now teaches English at the local school.

Norway Post



Trackback  •  Posted in Travel and leisure  


Oct 28
2009

Set on the banks of an extensive fjord and surrounded by hills and forest, Oslo offers a winning combination of sophisticated city life and easy access to outdoor activities, writes Olaf Furniss

IT IS the capital of a country with a population of about 5million, it has a castle and can be reached from central Aberdeen in less than three hours. But although it also boasts a population of some 500,000 and looks on to a large stretch of water, this is not Edinburgh, but Oslo.

Located on the banks of an extensive fjord and surrounded by hills and forest, the city boasts a winning combination of nature, culture and some excellent nightlife. In the summer, several islands provide great swimming spots, while in winter, sledging and ski-ing opportunities abound within the city limits.

Many of the daytime destinations are within walking distance of each other, but the fantastic public transport network – covered by the Oslo Pass – includes trams, buses, a subway and the ferries to nearby islands. A city bike scheme also exists, but seems designed to deter non-residents – as are the expensive taxis, which are often driven by people who appear to have spent almost as little time in the Norwegian capital as the average tourist.

And even when taxi drivers do know where to go, the prices are likely to induce a state reminiscent of Norway’s most famous painting, The Scream, which is now back in the city’s Edvard Munch museum after being stolen in broad daylight several years ago.

For those with an interest in exotic exhibits and buildings, both the contemporary art and architecture museums are housed in former central bank headquarters and offer the additional thrill of stepping inside the vaults.

The excellent (free) Astrup Fearnley, a few blocks away, features works by the usual suspects, such as Andy Warhol and Damian Hirst, while also hosting temporary exhibitions by leading international artists.

Meanwhile, a stroll past the imposing brick-built city hall and across the gardens of the royal palace – in Norway, there is no fence surrounding the king and queen’s residence – leads to the Kunstnernes Hus. With a focus on the best Scandinavian artists, the Art Deco building dates back to 1930 and alone is worth the visit.

However, art in the Norwegian capital is not confined to museums. While in London visitors are supposedly never more than a few yards away from a rat, in Oslo it sometimes seems that the tourist is never more than a few yards away from a statue.

In addition to random subjects in a wide range of poses, playwright Henrik Ibsen, Winston Churchill and Alfred Nobel are all immortalised, with the latter’s memory also served by a museum dedicated to his Peace Prize.

But the most striking, and bizarre, selection of statues can be found in the Gustav Vigeland Sculpture Park. Ranging from (naked) stroppy babies to (naked) athletic adults worthy of a Leni Riefenstahl film, the 212 works add a surreal dimension to a stroll.

The sculptor’s estranged younger brother, Emmanuel, also seemed to use art as a means of dealing with their austere religious upbringing, albeit in a slightly different manner to his sibling – he built a mausoleum in a residential neighbourhood, painted the walls and ceilings with scenes of birth, life and death and then had his ashes placed above the door. Although its opening hours are usually restricted from noon until 4pm on Sundays, it hosts occasional evening concerts, with many musicians keen to take advantage of its resonant acoustics and strangely tranquil atmosphere.

Music lovers of all shades are well catered for in Oslo, which has become the de facto music capital of Scandinavia and boasts some amazing record shops and venues.

Råkk Og Rålls houses a mesmerising collection, while Bare Jazz is an oasis of tranquillity tucked away down an alley off a busy shopping area.

Both are close to the Youngstorget square and its surrounding streets, which boast some of the city’s best bars. The legendary Cafe Mono is the local of many Oslo bands, while opposite is Fisk Og Vild, which manages to be both cool and unpretentious. At the upper end of the square is the tiny bolt-hole, Bonanza, where, unsurprisingly, beers are poured to a Country and Western soundtrack.

And definitely worth a visit is the recently opened Tilt, home to more than a dozen pinball machines, a vintage jukebox, lots of exotic beer varieties and something best described as the skittles version of air hockey.

Fortunately, Oslo offers as many places for peaceful pursuits as it does the wilder side of life, and anyone who has been out until closing time (3am) has ample head-clearing amenities on offer when they get up. A stroll on the roof of the Opera House is a good start (tickets for performances inside begin at £10) and the surrounding area is soon to become quieter when the remaining strip of motorway is relocated to an underground tunnel.

The nearby castle allows the visitor a chance to get their bearings, as well as a great view, before catching a ferry to one of the islands or taking a bus to Bygdøy. This peninsula celebrates Norway’s seafaring traditions and includes the maritime, Viking ship and Kontiki museums. In summer, it is also the site of a nudist beach – which is one thing you most definitely will not find in Edinburgh.

Read more: http://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/Article.aspx/1447802/?UserKey=#ixzz0VCmFtFPt

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Trackback  •  Posted in Travel and leisure  


Oct 27
2009

In conjunction with National Geographic Society’s Center for Sustainable Destinations, National Geographic Traveler has devoted its sixth annual “Places Rated” Destination Stewardship survey to the world’s most celebrated and iconic travel destinations and how well they have weathered the pressures of mass tourism and other threats.

Like the first Destination Rated survey in 2004, Norway’s fjords region has again taken top honors, with a score of 85 points. Judges noted the gorgeous scenery and well-preserved rural life that are vigorously protected.

Others making the top “Best Rated Places” category range from Japan’s ancient Kyoto (#4, 79 points) for honoring the “serenity and charm of ancient Japan” to Slovenia, formerly part of communist Yugoslavia, tied at #5 (78 points) for being among the most sustainable and authentic places to visit in Europe.

The United Kingdom is the country with the most winners in this year’s top category: England’s Yorkshire Dales, Scotland’s Highlands, and Wales.

A total of 133 destinations were surveyed by a panel of 437 well-traveled experts in a variety of fields related to sustainable tourism. The survey is the cover story of the November-December 2009 issue of National Geographic Traveler magazine, on newsstands Nov. 3.

- We hope the survey will bring attention to the places faring well, as well as to those in trouble, often due to reckless development and commercialism,” said Jonathan Tourtellot, director of the Center for Sustainable Destinations, which conducted the survey.

- If there is a blessing to the global downturn, it is the respite from such rampant, quick-buck degradation of Earth’s remaining beautiful places.”

The best U.S. ranking was the state of Vermont at #5 (78 points), scoring well not only for its scenic countryside but for environmental and social sustainability practices. Two other U.S. destinations made the top category: Oregon and Washington’s Columbia Gorge region (#6, 77 points) and Massachusetts’ Berkshires (#7, 76 points). Canada impressively took places #2 (81 points) and #3 (80 points), for British Columbia’s Kootenay and Yoho national parks on the western slope of the Canadian Rockies and for Quebec’s Gaspe Peninsula that juts into the Gulf of St. Lawrence with oceanfront, islands and mountains.

Read More:

World’s Iconic Destinations

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Trackback  •  Posted in Travel and leisure  


Oct 16
2009

http://images.smh.com.au/ftsmh/ffximage/2009/10/13/maxmanus_wideweb__470x297,0.jpg

Frozen moments … Aksel Hennie and Agnes Kittelsen find love in Max Manus , part of the Nordic Film Festival.

NORWAY’S entry for next year’s foreign film Oscar, Max Manus, has attracted record audiences of 1 million Norwegians – and a couple of Australians.

Given that Norway has a population of 4.8 million, that’s an impressive turnout for the country’s biggest-budget film, a movie about a resistance fighter who took on the Nazis, who invaded in 1940.

And the Aussies? Strictly speaking, of course, there have been more than two, but the director Bruce Beresford was so impressed by the film that he sent a hand-written postcard to the movie’s dual directors. ”He wrote and told us how much his wife and he loved Max Manus,” says Joachim Roenning. He and his co-director, Espen Sandberg, have never met Beresford but were genuinely touched by the unexpected gesture.

On Friday, audiences will get a chance to judge the film for themselves when it features as a drawcard for the Nordic Film Festival.

Max Manus fought Russian forces in Finland, then returned home to lead a group of saboteurs to battle Germany in his homeland. What distinguishes the film is its depiction of Manus as a vulnerable leader and a refusal to stereotype the invaders as heartless thugs.

While its setting is World War II, Sandberg sees Max Manus outside those terms. ”It’s about friendship and love. It’s about a guy who loses almost all of his friends. But he finds love, and that’s what saves him.”

The film is based on Manus’s own books, with the script by Thomas Nordseth-Tiller, a graduate of Edith Cowan University in Perth and the Academy of Art University in San Francisco. Roenning and Sandberg were working on a remake of The Heroes of Telemark, a 1965 Kirk Douglas film about Norwegian efforts to thwart Hitler’s work on an atomic bomb, when Nordseth-Tiller won a script competition judged by Liv Ullmann. Fans of the war movie genre, the two directors dropped everything to embrace the new opportunity.

Although Sandberg and Roenning stress they have great respect for solo directors, they see their partnership as ”natural”. They grew up together in southern Norway, often playing neighbourhood war games as children, and from early on shared a fascination with cinema.

”We played around with my dad’s video camera when we were 10,” Roenning says. Later they attended the same film school, served their mandatory time in the military together making propaganda films and then made television commercials for everything from Budweiser beer to Nokia phones before moving to feature films.

The equality of their partnership extends to the point that press material mentions their names alternately. They also ask that any interview includes both of them, then politely answer questions one at a time.

There is, though, a division of labour. Sandberg concentrates on working with the actors; Roenning is primarily responsible for the visuals. Asked if they face creative differences as they work to make a single work of art, they laugh in unison. ”Yes, of course,” Sandberg says. ”If there weren’t, it wouldn’t be useful.”

The 2009 Nordic Film Festival opens on Friday and runs until Tuesday at Dendy Opera Quays, Circular Quay.

http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/film/saboteurs-versus-nazis-minus-the-stereotypes/2009/10/13/1255195784205.html

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Trackback  •  Posted in Art  


Oct 16
2009

“There in the Temple, carved in wood,
The image of great
Odin stood,
And other gods,
with Thor supreme among them.”

As early as two thousand years before Christ Yule-tide was celebrated by the Aryans. They were sun-worshipers and believed the sun was born each morning, rode across the upper world, and sank into his grave at night.

Day after day, as the sun’s power diminished, these primitive people feared that he would eventually be overcome by darkness and forced to remain in the under world.

When, therefore, after many months, he apparently wheeled about and grew stronger and stronger, they felt that he had been born again.

So it came about that at _Hweolor-tid,
“the turning-time,”
there was great rejoicing
at the annual re-birth of the sun.

In the myths and legends of these, our ancestors, we find the origin of many of the ancient Yule tide customs now in vogue. They are indeed based on ancient traditions.

According to the Younger Edda, Wodin or Odin, the pioneer of the North, a descendant of Saturn, fled out of Asia. Going through Russia to Saxland (Germany), he conquered that country and left one of his sons as ruler.

Then he visited Frankland, Jutland, Sweden, and Norway and established each one of his many sons on a throne.

This pioneer traveler of ancient yule traditions figures under nearly two hundred different names, and so it is difficult to follow him in his wanderings. As Wodin, he established throughout the northern nations many of the observances and customs common to the people of the Northland today.

Ancient Yule Traditions

The Edda gives an ancient account of Balder, the sun-god, who was slain because of the jealousy of Loki (fire). Loki knew that everything in nature except the mistletoe had promised not to injure the great god Balder.

So he searched for the mistletoe until he found it growing on an oak-tree “on the eastern slope of Valhalla.” He cut it off and returned to the place where the gods were amusing themselves by using Balder as a target, hurling stones and darts, and trying to strike him with their battle-axes. But all these weapons were harmless.

Then Loki, giving the twig of mistletoe to the blind god, Höder, directed his hand and induced him to throw it. When the mistletoe struck Balder it pierced him through and through and he fell lifeless.

“So on the floor lay Balder dead; and round
Lay thickly strewn swords, axes, darts, and spears,
Which all the Gods in sport had idly thrown
At Balder, whom no weapon pierced or clove;
But in his breast stood fixt the fatal bough
Of mistletoe, which Lok the Accuser gave
To Höder, and unwitting Höder threw–
‘Gainst that alone had Balder’s life no charm.”

(From Matthew Arnold’s “Balder Dead.”)

Great excitement prevailed among the assembled gods and goddesses when Balder was struck dead and sank into Hel, and they would have slain the god of darkness had it not occurred during their peace-stead, which was never to be desecrated by deeds of violence. The season was supposed to be one of peace on earth and good-will to man.

Ancient Yule Traditions

Ancient Yule Traditions are generally attributed to the injunction of the angels who sang at the birth of Christ, but according to a much older story the idea of peace and good-will at Yule-tide was taught centuries before Christ.

According to ancient yule traditions of the Edda, gifts from the gods and goddesses were laid on Balder’s bier and he, in turn, sent gifts back from the realm of darkness into which he had fallen.

However, it probably is from the Roman Saturnalia that the ancient yule traditions of the free exchange of presents and the spirit of revelry have been derived.

The Druids held the mistletoe in great reverence in their ancient yule traditions because of its mysterious birth. When the first new growth was discovered it was gathered by the white-robed priests, who cut it from the main bough with a golden sickle never used for any other purpose.

The food peculiar to this season of rejoicing has retained many features of the feasting recorded among the ancient yule traditions of earlier people. The boar made his appearance in mythological circles and ancient yule traditions when one was offered as a gift to Frey, god of rain, sunshine, and the fruits of the earth.

Ancient Yule Tradition of the Boar

This boar was a remarkable animal; he could run faster than a horse, through the air and over water. Darkness could not overtake him, for he was symbolical of the sun, his golden bristles typifying the sun’s rays.

At one time the boar was believed to be emblematical of golden grain, as he was the first to teach mankind the art of plowing. Because of this service he was most revered by our mythological ancestors.

More Ancient Yule Traditions

In an account of a feast given in Valhalla to the dead heroes of many battles, Saehrimnir, a sacred boar, was served. Huge pieces were apportioned to the deceased heroes and the meat had such a revivifying effect that, restored to life, according to ancient traditions, they called for arms and began to fight their battles over again.

An abundance of heavenly mead made from goats’ milk and honey was provided for the feasts and on occasions ale, too, was served.

Ancient Yule

Toasts were usually drunk in honor of Bragi, god of poetry, eloquence, and song. The gods pledged themselves to perform remarkable deeds of courage and valor as they tossed off horn after horn of mead and ale in their ancient yule celebration.

Each time their mighty valor grew until there was no limit set to their attainments. It is possible that their boastful pledges may have given rise to ancient traditions of the term, “to brag.”

Apples were the favorite fruit, as they prevented the approach of age and kept the gods and goddesses perpetually young and vigorous.

Ancient Yule Traditions

Certainly Yule-tide was a very merry season among the ancient people who feasted, drank, and danced in honor of the return of the sun, the god of light and new life.

When messengers went through the various countries bearing tidings of a new religion and of the birth of a Son who brought light and new life into the whole world, they endeavored to retain as many of the established ancient yule traditions as possible, but gave to the old-time festivals a finer character and significance.

As the fact of Christ’s birth was not recorded and there was no certainty as to its date, the early Christian Fathers very wisely ascribed it to Yule-tide, changing the occasion from the birthday of the sun to that of the Son.

For a while the birth of Christ was celebrated on dates varying from the first to the sixth of January; on the dates of certain religious festivals such as the Jewish Passover or the Feast of Tabernacles; but the twenty-fifth of December, the birthday of the sun, was ever the favorite date.

Pope Julius, who reigned from 337 to 352 A. D., after a careful investigation, considered it settled beyond doubt that Christ was born on or about the twenty-fifth of December, and by the end of the fifth century that date was very generally accepted by christians.

The transition from the old to the new significance of Yule-tide was brought about so quietly and naturally that it made no great impression on the mind of the masses, so nothing authentic can be learned of the early observance of Christmas.

The holly, laurel, mistletoe, and other greens used by the Druids still served as decorations of the season, not as a shelter for fairies, as in former days, but as emblems of resurrection and of immortal hope.

The glorious luminary of day, whether known as Balder, Baal, Sol, or any other of the innumerable names by which it was called by the primitive peoples, still gladdens the hearts of mortals at Yule-tide by “turning-back” as of old; only today it yields its place to a Superior Power, in whose honor Yule-tide is observed.

* * * * *

All Christendom owes a debt of gratitude to its pagan forbears for the pleasant features of many of its holidays and especially for those of Yule-tide. The Fathers of the early church showed rare wisdom in retaining the customs of these ante-Christian festivals, imbuing them with the spirit of the new faith and making them emblematic of a purer love and hope.

New Year’s Day as a feast day is one of the oldest, if not the oldest, on record. It is mentioned by Tacitus in the First Century, but first referred to as a Christian festival about the year 567.

In Rome the day was dedicated by Numa to the honor of god Janus, for whom Julius Cæsar named the month of January. Numa ordained that it should be observed as a day of good-humor and good fellowship. All grudges and hard feelings were to be forgotten. Sacrifices of cake, wine, and incense were to be made to the two-faced god who looked forward and backward.

Men of letters, mechanics, and others were expected to give to the god the best they had to offer of their respective arts. It was the great occasion of the entire year, as it is now in many countries.

The date of New Year’s Day has varied among different nations. Among the Egyptians, Chinese, Jews, and Romans it has been observed on dates varying from March first to December twenty-fifth. It was as late as the Sixteenth Century before the date of January first was universally accepted as the New Year by the Romans.

Nations retaining the Gregorian calendar, such as Russia and Greece, observe it thirteen days later than those who reckon time by the Julian calendar.

Among northern nations the love of fire and light originated the custom of kindling bonfires to burn out the old year and destroy all evil connected with its past. Light has long been an expression of joy and gladness among all branches of the Aryan race.

The Greek and Latin Churches still term Christmas the “Feast of Lights,” and make it a period of brilliancy in Church and home. The Protestant covers the Christmas tree with lighted candles and builds a glowing fire on the hearth.

The innate love of light and warmth–the inheritance from the sun-worshipers of ages past–is always dominant in humanity at Yule-tide festivals.

“The King of Light, father of aged Time,
Hath brought about that day which is the prime,
To the slow-gliding months, when every eye
Wears symptoms of a sober jollity,
And every hand is ready to present
Some service in a real compliment.”

KING OLAF’S CHRISTMAS

At Drontheim, Olaf the King
Heard the bells of Yule-tide ring,
As he sat in his banquet-hall,
Drinking the nut-brown ale,
With his bearded Berserks hale And tall.

Three days his Yule-tide feasts
He held with Bishops and Priests,
And his horn filled up to the brim;
But the ale was never too strong,
Nor the Saga-man’s tale too long,
For him.

O’er his drinking-horn, the sign
He made of the cross divine,
As he drank, and muttered his prayers;
But the Berserks evermore
Made the sign of the Hammer of Thor
Over theirs.

The gleams of the firelight dance
Upon helmet and haubert and lance,
And laugh in the eyes of the King;
And he cries to Halfred the Scald,
Gray-bearded, wrinkled, and bald,
“Sing!”

“Sing me a song divine,
With a sword in every line,
And this shall be thy reward.”
And he loosened the belt at his waist,
And in front of the singer placed
His sword.

“Quern-bitter of Hakon the Good,
Wherewith at a stroke he hewed
The millstone through and through,
And Foot-breadth of Thoralf the Strong,
Were neither so broad nor so long,
Nor so true.”

Then the Scald took his harp and sang,
And loud through the music rang
The sound of that shining word;
And the harp-strings a clangor made,
As if they were struck with the blade
Of a sword.

And the Berserks round about
Broke forth in a shout
That made the rafters ring;
They smote with their fists on the board,
And shouted, “Long live the sword,
And the King.”

But the King said, “O my son,
I miss the bright word in one
Of thy measures and thy rhymes.”
And Halfred the Scald replied,
“In another ‘t was multiplied
Three times.”

Then King Olaf raised the hilt
Of iron, cross-shaped and gilt,
And said, “Do not refuse;
Count well the gain and the loss,
Thor’s hammer or Christ’s cross:
Choose!”

And Halfred the Scald said, “This
In the name of the Lord I kiss,
Who on it was crucified!”
And a shout went round the board,
“In the name of Christ the Lord,
Who died!”

Then over the waste of snows
The noonday sun uprose,
Through the driving mists revealed,
Like the lifting of the Host,
By incense-clouds almost
Concealed.

On the shining wall a vast
And shadowy cross was cast
From the hilt of the lifted sword,
And in the foaming cups of ale
The Berserks drank “Was-hael!
To the Lord!”

– Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.

http://www.scandinavianchristmastraditions.com/ancientyule.html

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Trackback  •  Posted in Christmas  


Oct 14
2009

With a cool beer in my hand and the bubbles from the hot-tub churning up around me, boy was I relaxed. Or should that be buoy was I relaxed?

This wasn’t any old hot-tub, you see. This was a hot-tub at the stern of a ship charting a course through arguably the most breathtaking scenery that Europe has to offer.

Fred Olsen’s Classic Norway Cruise takes you down beautiful fjord after beautiful fjord and, in so doing, you journey into the heart of this Scandinavian paradise. Amid a landscape of snow-capped peaks, pine-packed slopes and icy blue waters, this cruise is the perfect way to soak up the pure, invigorating scenery for which Norway is renowned.

But before we get into the details, let me disabuse you of one notion. If you’re of younger years and believe that cruises are only for those of pensionable age, think again. Sure, on board you’ll find plenty of silver-surfers who are there to do very little other than eat, drink and enjoy the post-dinner entertainment (which, by the way, is terrific fun, as long as you’re not expecting high culture).

But this 30-year-old found plenty to do, from kayaking down a sun-kissed fjord between waterfalls to chancing my arm on the Blackjack table.

The week-long cruise begins and ends in Dover, with the recently refitted Balmoral taking you on a four-stop odyssey. The first stop is Bergen, Norway’s sophisticated and undulating second city before you dock in three gorgeous ports in the fjords: Olden, Flam and Eidfjord.

If it’s the majestic scenery of the fjords that you’re after, then this cruise doesn’t begin in earnest until you reach landfall in Olden. But Bergen is more than worthy of the day-long visit that’s allotted to it on the itinerary especially if you’re willing to stray off the beaten path.

My departure from the beaten path took me to Troldhaugen, a place of quintessential Scandinavian solitude where the composer Edvard Grieg almost certainly Norway’s greatest cultural export had a lakeside home and wrote many of his finest works. The house is now a museum, and it’s interesting enough, but the wow-factor is provided by the new concert hall next door. Book this excursion in advance, and you can have your very own short Grieg concert performed by a top local pianist. And as the notes thunder around you and the milky northern sun shines through the large concert hall window that overlooks the lake, you’ll enjoy a moment of pure Nordic magic.

But it’s natural beauty rather than artistic beauty that this trip is principally about. And for vistas to take the breath away, the Briksdal Glacier near Olden and the route taken by the Flam Railway are must-sees. Take your camera and prepare to get snapping, as these trips encapsulate all that Norwegian natural beauty is about: silent, icy grandeur and mesmerising vistas.

The panoramas you enjoy on these expeditions are so fundamentally Nordic that if a troll popped his head out from behind the nearest glacier, you’d barely bat an eyelid.

But the natural beauty of Norway also carries a more serious message. Even the most cursory glance at the Briksdal Glacier makes you aware of just how quickly the glacier, thanks to rising temperatures, is receding. The marks that show where it extended to just a decade ago are so clear that you can’t help wondering just what will be left of this spectacular object in another ten years’ time should global warming continue apace.

But back on the Balmoral there’s little time to worry about man’s CO2 emissions. For those wishing to stay active on board, there are dancing classes, gym sessions and the chance for a bracing dip in one of two pools. For those for whom a holiday means the opposite of exercise, there is a well-equipped beauty salon, a plethora of bars, and a twice-daily pub quiz, the last of which I confess to having been a regular at.

And then there’s the cuisine. You can have six courses every night should you wish, and the variety and consistency of the cooking is astounding. I tried reindeer for the first time (well, I was in Scandinavia after all) and got stuck into a whole host of tasty puds. The wine list is wide-ranging enough to keep even the most fastidious buff happy, while its tax-free status means the prices are palatable too.

My cabin, which came with a balcony, was spacious and comfortable, and was immaculately maintained by smiling, hard-working staff for whom nothing was too much trouble.

Talking of troubles, they’ll soon ebb away on this trip. It’s the perfect tonic for those seeking to leave behind the stresses and strains of everyday life. Before you know it, you’ll be on cruise control.

http://www.thisisbath.co.uk/entertainment/Fred-Olsen-s-cruises-turn-relaxation-art-form/article-1418860-detail/article.html

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Trackback  •  Posted in Travel and leisure  


Oct 12
2009

Original article appeared in JoongAngDaily.
The streets aren’t overly crowded and you aren’t constantly walking in the shadows of hulking skyscrapers.
October 08, 2009
A view of Oslo from the Fram Museum. By Brian Lee

OSLO, NORWAY – In life, everybody collects their own memories and stores them in a special little box they can open whenever they desire.

For me, a recent trip to Norway is one of the sparkling jewels in that box.

Norway’s tourism slogan, “Powered by Nature,” is a simple marketing tool designed to lure people to the area. But I discovered that it really does in fact capture everything about the country quite well.

An eight-hour flight on Finnair from Seoul to Helsinki, Finland followed by a three-hour layover and then another hour-long plane ride on the same airline landed me in Oslo, the capital of this Scandinavian nation. A cumbersome affair, to be sure. But that is the price one must pay coming from Seoul with the absence of a direct flight linking the two countries. Still, from what I experienced it’s worth every penny (and hour of flight time.)

Oslo has a population of roughly half a million people, which is tiny compared to the teeming metropolis of Seoul. But while “bigger” is considered better in many aspects of life, here the numbers play into Norway’s favor. The streets aren’t overly crowded, you don’t hear the constant din of horns from irate drivers, and you aren’t constantly walking in the shadows of hulking skyscrapers. The people are very open and laid-back.

And this is precisely the point.

Don’t get me wrong, Oslo is by no means a sleepy hamlet. It is quite cosmopolitan, but it’s also compact and provides easy access to the surrounding hills and mountains for outdoor activities. What caught my attention is how much green lurks between the buildings and in the residential areas. In fact, the air you breathe here is just different. For people who live here it may be no big deal, but coming from a smog-filled city I immediately recognized the difference. With temperatures in early September just below 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit) during the daytime, T-shirts and a light jacket for the evening were all I needed.

The prices also caught my attention. Prepare to shell out some money if you come here. A meal for a couple and a child at a restaurant will run between 400 to 500 kroner (83,268 to 102,953 won, or $70.36 to $87.96).

A tour guide sits on a rock perched over Geiranger Fjord.

If you can get past the sticker shock and want a glimpse of the nightlife, a stroll to Aker Brygge near City Hall is a must. This area was a former shipyard that has been converted into a seafront boardwalk complete with a shopping center, restaurants, bars and a small harbor where some boats have actually been transformed into eateries. But it’s also well worth a visit in the morning, when it’s absolutely beautiful. I found the adjacent sea view just splendid. Looking into that deep, rolling blue calmed and soothed my soul as I took in the surroundings including Akershus Castle, which is today used for state and cultural events. In short, I found the city not too big nor too small. Like a Swiss army knife, Oslo has everything you could want, yet is also compact and convenient.

I have to confess that I am no art lover, but failing to mention what Oslo has to offer in this regard would be a crime. The city has more than 50 museums with plenty of galleries. One of the most famous is the Munch Museum, dedicated to the work and life of painter Edvard Munch. “The Scream” is probably one of the most recognizable Munch works, and its central character has been used in advertisements and films, solidly planting itself in pop culture.

Other highlights include the Fram Museum, the Viking Ship Museum and the Vigeland Sculpture Park, which all offer visitors unique experiences. The park, located in the Frogner District, lends itself well to a stroll on a clear day. While it took Gustav Vigeland 13 years to create the more than 200 sculptures in the park, for a visitor, a good hour and half should suffice. To take full advantage of this impressive array of attractions, I strongly recommend buying the Oslo Pass. The 24-hour pass costs 220 Norway kroner for adults, while the 72-hour one will set you back 410 kroner. It offers free entry into 35 museums, free public transport and special offers in restaurants, shops and leisure venues – making it a must-have for art lovers and those interested in history.

Armed with this pass, I was able to visit several sights. One worth mentioning is the Viking Ship Museum, which displays how the Vikings – the ancestors of the Norwegians – lived back in the day.

Any trip to Norway wouldn’t be complete without seeing its famed fjords, or valleys created by glacial activity. You can take a cruise, hop on a ferry or hire a boat to experience these fjords firsthand. Driving alongside the fjords is also a possibility, but I recommend taking a boat trip simply because it gives you the best view and you can sit back and relax.

I was fortunate enough to ride a ferry on the Geirangerfjord, also known as the “pearl” of Norway’s fjords. Located in the Sunnmøre region, the fjord stretches out for 15 kilometers (9.3 miles) from Hellesylt to Geiranger. From the surrounding mountains, one can see the glacier and waterfalls flowing into the fjord, which give it a mystical blue color that works like magic on the human mind. The Seven Sisters waterfall at the Geirangerfjord is a perfect example of Mother Nature’s ability to mix all these elements into one magnificent view.

On a typical ferry, tourists can enjoy the view from the deck or, if it gets too windy, hunker down inside. Regardless of the weather, my recommendation is to stay outside and get some wind in your hair and cleanse your lungs.

As for accommodations, I was particularly intrigued by the Hotel Union in Geiranger. This family-run hotel, now operated by the fourth generation, has attracted some big-name guests, such as the Norwegian royal family. Aside from the comforts one would expect from a first-class hotel, there is a surprise in the basement, which houses several classic automobiles including a black, seven-seat 1932 Buick President.

If you’re looking for other natural wonders, the Briksdal glacier is a good place to visit. The glacier drops from a height of 1,200 meters into the Briksdal Valley, providing a jaw-dropping view. A trip on the Flam railway line, which stretches about 20 kilometers, is another way to capture Norway’s natural beauty. The train snakes its way through untamed mountains and alongside rivers, waterfalls and valleys. The occasional stops at stations along the way provide ample opportunities to engage in outdoor activities or simply enjoy the view over a cup of coffee.

When you are not venturing out in nature, checking out Norway’s small cities provides a welcome break. Alesund, a seaport town with Art Nouveau buildings, and Bergen – a city situated on the west coast of Norway and a Unesco World Heritage site, are worth visits.

The Viking Museum in Oslo

As a tourist, you may wonder what sort of souvenirs you should buy. I would recommend a traditional Norwegian sweater or jacket, if it’s in your budget. The weather patterns in Norway have given birth to some excellent outdoor apparel that is well worth the money. Ask a local to recommend a brand, as you shouldn’t settle for the stuff they sell at the usual tourist shops.

All in all, for those who have felt the weight of life bearing down on them, Norway is a place that will slow down – and dare I say even turn back – your internal clock and allow you to reflect on what you may have been missing out on all these years.

This country certainly makes you feel alive.

For more information, contact Innovation Norway at (02)777-5943.

www.visitnorway.com
http://joongangdaily.joins.com/article/view.asp?aid=2910994

By Brian Lee [africanu@joongang.co.kr]

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Oct 10
2009

Norwegian Folk Arts

The Folk Arts of Norway

The isolated valleys and scattered farms of Norway harbor a folk art tradition that is among the richest in the world. There the arts of painted floral decoration, woodcarving, metalworking, weaving, embroidery and costume-making have been developed over the centuries, and are still being practiced today.

Norwegian Folk Arts

Following up on the original 1953 University of Wisconsin Press edition and the 1972 Dover Publications reissue, this updated volume includes new information on north Norway and on the Sami (the people formerly known as Lapps).

As in previous editions, chapters detail the Norwegian folk arts of carving, rosemaling, metalwork, weaving, and embroidery, offering historical origins and discussing regional variations.

The Woven Coverlets of Norway (below) showcases one of Norway’s most beautiful and enduring folk arts.

Woven coverlets:

A warm, thick cover has always been important during Norway’s long winter nights, but coverlets also decorated the family bedsteads in oneroom farmhouses, affording housewives an opportunity to display their talents.

Coverlets were a central feature in the important ceremonies of a person’s life as well, wrapping an infant at christening, providing a cover for the marriage bed, and draping the coffin as a last offering of comfort to a loved one.

To explain the coverlet’s importance as the pinnacle of the Norwegian weaver’s art, Katherine Larson looks at the role textiles played in the lives of women prior to the twentieth century.

She takes readers through the yearly cycle in rural Norway and relates it to the many steps of cloth production in a pre-industrial era.

Larson describes traditional methods of preparing, spinning, dyeing, and weaving wool and flax, and the tools with which these tasks were performed.

She devotes chapters to the different types of coverlets and their origins: tapestry, square weave, krokbragd, double weave, rya, and overshot.

Numerous illustrations show patterns from ages past faithfully preserved in the coverlets of Norway.

In addition, the book includes a wealth of bibliographic sources and a glossary of weaving terminology

The book will appeal to anyone who owns or has ever admired an antique coverlet, and especially to Scandinavian Americans who are interested in their cultural heritage.

The historical aspects will be important to textile studies, women’s studies, and art history.

http://www.scandinavianchristmastraditions.com/norwegianfolkart.html

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Oct 9
2009

He’s to play with The Norwegian Chamber Orchestra – the concert is sold out, but the public will have a new chance – to attend an open rehearsal a couple of hours before the actual performance.

Contemporary music appears not to scare the public when Leif Ove Andsnes and The Norwegian Chamber Orchestra perform the premiere of Bent Sørensens new piano concerto, Sunday, October 11.  The program also includes Mozart and Tsjaikowski’s Serenade for Strings will conclude the concert.

Those who have not managed to get tickets will still get a second chance.  Two hours before the concert the soloist and the orchestra invite the public to experience the dress rehearsal – the finishing touches of preparing for the concert.

Musical leadership is by the Dutch violinist Isabelle van Keulen, who with this concert makes her debut as The Norwegian Chamber Orchestra’s new artistic director.  Van Keulen is a recognized violinist having appeared as soloist with many of the world’s leading orchestras.  She is active as a chamber musician and for many years led her own chamber music festival in Delft.  Her engagement with The Norwegian Chamber Orchestra will initially cover three seasons where she will create three productions yearly.  In March 2010 she will lead the Chamber Orchestra on its tour of Japan and Korea, and in August the BBC Proms are on the program.

The concert is a triple debut:  Andsnes, The Norwegian Chamber Orchestra and Isabelle van Keulen are all making their first appearance at “Operaen” the new Oslo Opera House.

http://www.operaen.no/Default.aspx?ID=27625

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Oct 9
2009

Fjords were formed when glaciers retreated and sea water flooded the remaining valleys. With the largest concentration of fjords in the world situated in western Norway, the region has become known as Fjord Norway. Cruise ships are able to easily navigate the deep fjords, allowing you to experience some of the most scenic natural environments on earth. Due to the warming waters of the Gulf Stream, the fjords are mostly ice-free and are home to seals, porpoises and an abundance of fish. Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy hiking, glacier walking, mountain climbing, fishing and cycling on or near the fjords.

Geirangerfjord

A popular destination for sightseeing cruises and a UNESCO World Heritage site, the 15 km fjord is found in the county of More og Romsdal in northern Norway. Cruise to one of the country’s most visited fjords and see two of the waterfalls that flow into the fjord: Brudesloret, the Bridal Veil; and De syv sostrene, the Seven Sisters. The nearby Hotel Utsikten also offers scenic views of the waterfalls. Stay in one of the numerous hotels, cabins or campsites so you will be able to spend some time fishing, canoeing or rafting in the area.

Naeroyfjord

An arm of the Sognefjord, the second longest fjord in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, Naeroyfjord is approximately a 7 1/2-hour drive from Oslo or a six-hour drive from Bergen. Situated in the heart of Western Norway, the narrowest section of the 17 km fjord is only 300 m wide. Popular activities in the area include cycling on the Rallarvegen or traveling along the Adventure Road to see fjords, mountains, waterfalls and glaciers. You can sign up for an organized sightseeing tour but you can also enjoy exploring on your own. In addition to the fjord, local attractions include the Geirangerfjord, the Alnes Lighthouse and the bird island of Runde.

Lysefjord

Located in Ryfylke, in the southern section of Western Norway, the 40 km fjord reaches a depth of 422 m at its deepest point. Towering more than 600 m over the fjord, Preikestolen, the Pulpit Rock, is a 600 m mountain plateau that can be reached by hiking up a marked trail. The trail begins at the Preikestolen Fjellstue mountain lodge and also features picnic areas. During the summer, food and accommodations are available at Preikestolen Fjellstue, which is also a starting point for several other marked trails. Challenge yourself by climbing up the Kjerag mountain, 1,084 m above the fjord, and take in the panoramic views by standing on the Kjeragbolten, a round rock wedged solidly in a mountain crevice. For those who are not quite so adventurous, a sightseeing cruise is also a great option for scenic views of the fjord, Pulpit Rock and the Kjaerag mountain plateaus.

http://www.trails.com/list_10164_list-norway-fjords.html

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